Size

1,613 sq km (about 1000 sq miles).

Location

Western Tanzania, bordering Lake Tanganyika.

To Do

Chimp tracking (allow 2 days); hiking, camping safaris, snorkelling; fish for your dinner.

Best Time

Dry season (May – October) best for forest walks although there is no problem in the light rains of October/November.

A chain of dramatic peaks draped in lush forest commands the lake far below, thin curls of white sand lacing crescent azure coves like flashes of silk. Like its northerly neighbour, Gombe, the Mahale Mountains are home to some of the last remaining wild chimpanzees in Africa. There, in isolated rainforest, around 1,000 of these fascinating animals roam the valleys and hills.

A trip to see the chimpanzees is a magical experience. Your guide’s experienced eyes distinguish last night’s nests – shadowy clumps high in a gallery of trees crowding the sky. Scraps of half eaten fruit and fresh dung become valuable clues, leading you deeper into the forest. Butterflies flirt in the dapples sunlight. Suddenly you are in the middle of a chimpanzee day. They preen each other’s glossy coats in concentrated huddles, squabble noisily or bound effortlessly into the trees, whinging nonchalantly through the vines.

The area is also known as Nkungwe – named after the park’s massive mountain. At 2,460 metres (8,069 ft) it is the highest of the six prominent points that make up the mounting range which runs down the Mahale promontory, alongside Lake Tanganyika.

You can also trace the Tongwe people ancient pilgrimage to the mountain spirits, hiking through enclaves of rainforest to grassy ridges chequered with alpine bamboo. Then return to the lake to plunge into the clear water home to 250 unique species of fish, before returning as you came by boat.